“The tanks crush our bones,
No one comes to our aid.
On the edge of our grave
The world has been sitting.Girl don’t tell my mother
That I will die tonight;
but tell her that I am going to the mountains
To which I will return in Spring”P.F. Pingitore, Avanti ragazzi di Budapest
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Itinerary in summary (with maps)
- Day 0: Arrival in Budapest and city by night
- Day 1: Castle district, Chain bridge and Széchenyi baths
- Day 2: Citadel, Gellert baths, central Market
- Day 3: Parliament, Margaret Island and Jewish Quarter
- Conclusions
Introduction
The verses with which I introduce you to my travel story in the Hungarian capital summarize rather well the recent history that has helped shape the city and its inhabitants. A history characterized, among other things, by the oppression of totalitarianisms, first black and later red (the introductory verses are taken from a song written in memory of the 1956 repression of Hungary’s uprising by Soviet tanks). It is a history of sufference, the aftermath of which seems to be still present in the population, which was able to rebuild the city, making it a modern and fascinating global metropolis.
Budapest is crossed by the Danube, which literally divides it into two parts, namely Buda and Pest. Similarly to what happens in other Eastern European cities, such as Krakow and Prague, the city is thus arranged on the two sides of the river, with an upper city (Buda), hilly and in which the Castle is located, and a lower city (Pest), with a flatter morphology.
One of the city’s special features, which is often one of the main reasons that entice tourists to visit, are the hot springs, so that Budapest is also known as the city of baths. Many baths have centuries of history, and are also very interesting architecturally and artistically.
I have been to Budapest twice a few years apart, managing to visit the different parts of the city quite well. In this article, I will mainly tell about my most recent experience, spread over 3 days.
Itinerary in summary (with maps)
With the aim to interspersing sightseeing with moments of well-deserved relaxation, I divided the daily itineraries into a more tiring part, devoted to visiting the main attractions of interest, and another for refreshment with bathing at the thermal baths. The first day is devoted to visiting the Castle District, Fishermen’s Bastion and St. Stephen’s Basilica in the first part of the day, and bathing at the Széchenyi Baths in the second, with related visits to Heroes’ Square and Vajdahunyad Castle, located in the vicinity of the baths. The second day’s itinerary focuses on a visit to the Citadel and the market area, and relaxation time at the Gellert Baths. The third and final day is devoted to visiting the Parliament, Margaret Island and the Jewish Quarter, the latter to be kept as a final stop to reach the airport more easily.
A summary of the stages is in the table, supplemented by maps (feasible routes on foot).
| Day | Attractions | Map |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | Arrival in Budapest and city by night | Budapest by night |
| 1 | Gresham palace, Chain Bridge, Castle District, Fishermen’s bastion, St. Stephen’s Basilica, Széchenyi Baths | Castle District and Fishermens’ Bastion Széchenyi Baths |
| 2 | Citadel, central Market, Gellert baths | Citadel and central Market |
| 3 | Parliament and Margaret Island, Jewish Quarter | Parliament and Margaret Island Jewish Quarter |
Day 0: Arrival in Budapest and city by night
We land at Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt International Airport (BUD) in the evening and, via a simple 100E line bus, we arrive directly in the center. The bus drops us off at Deak Ferenc Ter, we then reach our accommodation, located near St. Stephen’s Basilica, with a short walk. It is about dinner time, and the Basilica is closed, but in return we manage to see it somewhat illuminated.
After having dinner, we walk to the Parliament. Of course, the Parliament is also closed, but we are mainly interested in the outside, with its beautiful illuminations.
We continue our walk overlooking the Danube. We stay on the Parliament side and find after a few meters the famous art installation of Shoes on the Danube bank, a recently created Holocaust memorial by director Can Togay and sculptor Gyula Pauer. We also glimpse on the opposite side of the river the Buda Castle and Fishermen’s Bastion, both well lit.
We close our walk by arriving at the Chain Bridge, one of the city’s most renowned landmarks, before returning to our accommodation and preparing for the next day. The full tour takes us a good hour or so.
Day 1: Castle district, Chain bridge and Széchenyi baths
We begin our day by heading straight for the Chain Bridge, from which the road to the Castle starts. Before crossing the bridge, we visit externally the Gresham Palace, an example Art Nouveau building that owes its name to the Gresham Life Assurance Society, which acquired ownership in the early 1900s.
We then cross over the Chain Bridge, not without first taking a few ritual photos from all possible angles.
We next arrive at the Funicular, from which we begin the ascent to Buda Castle. It is worth noting that if you want to reach the Castle directly by Funicular, it is best to arrive early in the morning to avoid the endless lines. Of course, there is a fee for the Funicular; the cost per round trip is 4000 Ft (just under 10€). Going up instead on foot takes us a good half hour.
Buda Castle is a rather large complex that has gone through a tumultuous history over the centuries, being destroyed (or half-destroyed) several times. Its present form is consequent to the latest reconstruction, which began in 1950. The castle is divided into several wings, which are organized around the Lion Courtyard. The courtyard, as well as the gardens, are open free to the public and can be visited 24 hours a day. The castle is also home to the Budapest Historical Museum, the National Gallery, and the National Library, all located around the courtyard, which can be visited instead for a fee (tickets can be purchased on site) generally from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., except on Mondays (closing day). The courtyard overlooks the Danube, offering a spectacular view of the city, particularly the Chain Bridge, but the Parliament can also be seen in the distance.
Having finished visiting the Castle, we proceed to the Fishermen’s Bastion, which can be reached on foot in just a few minutes. The Fishermen’s Bastion is my favorite part of the city. Its name comes from the fishermen’s guild that was responsible for defending the city walls in that section during the Middle Ages, and it consists of 7 towers, representing the 7 Magyar tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin during the same historical period. It is worth visiting the Bastion early in the morning; the crowds start arriving quickly. The view from the Bastion is also absolutely worthwhile, with the Parliament coming into closer view.
An absolute point of interest located next to the Fishermen’s Bastion is the Church of Matthias, named not after the saint of the same name, but after King Matthias Corvinus. In addition to being very appreciable externally, the church is also beautiful inside, to visit which you must purchase a ticket on site, or online at the Matthias Church website. The cost of the basic ticket for adults is 2900 Ft (about 7€).
After visiting Matthias Church, we walk down the hill to the city’s most famous view point, which offers a splendid view of the Parliament. Before arriving at the viewpoint, we pass the Buda Calvinist Church, whose facade is also visible from the opposite bank of the Danube. It is not much inside, but from the outside it is definitely worth a photo stop.
At this point we finally arrive at the view point, to see the facade of Parliament in all its glory. Although it is a very good spot, there are not that many people there.
A good half of the day has already passed, so a nice lunch break is more than deserved. However, we decide to have something to eat in the area of St. Stephen’s Basilica, our next stop, which we reach comfortably by public transportation, as it is not very close, as well as being on the opposite side of the Danube from where we are. The idea of including a visit to the basilica at this point in the itinerary is also due to the fact that it is located halfway between the viewpoint where we are and the Széchenyi baths, where we will go to relax throughout the afternoon until the evening hours.
St. Stephen’s Basilica is so named in honor of the founder and first king of the Kingdom of Hungary during the Middle Ages, who was proclaimed a saint upon his death. On the other hand, the construction of the Basilica is recent; in fact, it was finished in the early 1900s. The Basilica is very impressive, and internally unmissable. The basic ticket for an adult, which can be purchased on site or online at the St. Stephen’s Basilica website, costs 2400 Ft (just under 6€), but by a favorable astral conjuncture we catch a day when the visit is free.
Having finished our visit to the basilica, we head to the baths, once again using the metro. We get off at the Heroes’ Square stop, located a few minutes’ walk from the baths. The square houses the Millennium Monument and the Memorial Stone of the Heroes of World War I in its central part, while on either side of the monument are the Museum of Fine Arts and the Műcsarnok Art Gallery.
Next to Heroes’ Square is also the City Park, which houses Vajdahunyad Castle, built in the early 1900s.
We visit only the exterior part of the castle, at the end of which we finally head to the Széchenyi baths, where we relax until dinner time. The baths are the largest in the city and cost between 11000 and 13500 Ft (i.e. between about 26 and 32€) per day, depending on the day chosen. Tickets can be purchased on site or online at the Széchenyi Baths website.
The baths have both an indoor and an outdoor part, which is more popular. Being the largest and most famous in the city, expect a lot of people.
After our warm and relaxing bath, during which we also listen to the conversation of some guys complaining about the excessive cost of Hungarian prostitutes (maybe someone might be interested in that…), we return by subway to the viewpoint over the Parliament so we can see it lit up. The sight is truly impressive. The lights are on till 10 p.m. in the working days, and till 11 p.m. in the weekends.
We finally close the day with a nice typical Goulash dinner before returning to our accommodation, very satisfied with the day.
Day 2: Citadel, Gellert baths, central Market
Our day begins with a tour of the surroundings of St. Stephen’s Basilica. In this part of the city is Freedom Square, which contains within its perimeter two controversial monuments. The first is Monument in Memory of the Nazi Occupation, desired by the Hungarian government in 2014, but interpreted by opponents as the government’s own desire to actually erase the memory of the alliance between Hitler and the government of the time, which collaborated in the deportations.
The second is the Red Army Memorial Monument, which on the one hand commemorates the liberation of the city from the Nazis during World War II, but on the other evokes the memory of the communist regime, which was also a protagonist in Hungary of terrible crimes. A curiosity about the monument is its location near the U.S. Embassy, which in a sort of protest had a statue of Ronald Reagan, a strongly anti-Soviet president among the protagonists of the fall of the Berlin Wall, built next to it in 2011.
Next, we cross the Chain Bridge again to head to the opposite bank of the Danube. We pass by the Várkert Bazár, a building dating from the 19th century and originally envisioned by the city’s royalty as a small center for trade and entertainment. Recently made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it now represents a small cultural center, with stores, clubs and exhibitions positioned around the building.
We continue our walk along the Danube, the stop of our greatest interest being the Citadel, located at the top of Gellert Hill. Since we have some time, we decide to walk up, taking our time also to admire the city from above along the way (alternatively, it is possible to get there by bus to the vicinity of the entrance).
The construction of the Citadel dates back to the Hungarian Revolution of 1848, wanted by Austrian Emperor Joseph I for the purpose of control and deterrence. The Citadel’s architecture is very impressive; in its central part is the huge 14-meter-high Statue of Liberty, now a testament to Budapest’s turbulent history.
Finally, at the foot of Gellert Hill is a small rock church, inspired by the Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes.
A good half of the day has already passed by the end of our visit to the Citadel, so we deserve a worthy lunch, which we consume nearby at absolute leisure. After refreshing ourselves, we head to the Gellert Baths, to which we devote the second half of the day, roughly until closing time, which is 7 p.m. Tickets can be purchased on site, or online at the Gellert Baths website; the cost is identical to that of the Széchenyi Baths. Compared to the latter, the Gellert Baths are smaller, but also slightly less crowded (although you still see a lot of people on weekends) and in my experience also better maintained, as well as more aesthetically appreciative. Alternatively, you can opt for Rudas Thermal Baths, located nearby. Ticket cost and opening hours are similar to those of Gellert Baths.
After our well-deserved relaxation, we return to the opposite side of the Danube for a tour of the Market district and Vaci Street, a street renowned for its clubs and stores. This area is also home to the World War I memorial. It is already the evening hours, there are few people around and we take the opportunity to have a bite to eat.
We end the day with another walk along the Danube. I point out the presence of the famous Little Princess Statue more or less halfway between Elizabeth Bridge and Chain Bridge, with a striking view of Buda Castle.
Day 3: Parliament, Margaret Island and Jewish Quarter
We have half a day before catching our flight, scheduled for late afternoon. The main highlight of the day is a visit to the Parliament, which we want to see again in daylight. We therefore set out from St. Stephen’s Basilica, arriving at our destination in a few minutes. Although the darkness that accompanied us on our evening visit when we arrived makes the atmosphere more beautiful, even the sunshine offers a decidedly not bad sight.
The Parliament can also be visited inside, with a guide or audio guide, available in several languages. The visit lasts 45 minutes. The ticket price for an adult is 6500 Ft (just under 16€), they can also be purchased online at this site. Then find an exhaustive gallery of what to see internally on the Parliament website.
We continue on foot in a northerly direction until we reach Margaret Bridge, the access point for Margaret Island, named after the Saint of the same name who lived in Hungary during the Middle Ages. Along the way, we encounter the Statue of Imre Nagy, Hungary’s first Minister and and Hero of the Revolution who led the protest against the Communist regime, before being executed. There is also a beautiful view of the Danube from the Bridge.
Margaret Island is an oval-shaped islet in the middle of the Danube, just under 3 km long and just over 500 meters wide. It is a place quite far from the hustle and bustle of the city, although in summer it can become quite crowded. At the entrance to the island, coming from the Margaret Bridge, is the Unification Centennial Memorial, surrounded by greenery.
Other points of interest include the Japanese Garden, the Musical Well and Fountain, the Water tower (a water tank), the Rose Garden, St. Michael’s Chapel, and the ruins of the Dominican Convent and Franciscan Church.
There are also services, bars and small restaurants on the island. The visit to Margaret Island takes a couple of hours. At the end, we return to retrieve our luggage to our lodging, which we conveniently reach by public transportation, taking the bus at the exit of the island, located at the opposite vertex from the entrance, near the Music Well.
We end the city tour with the Jewish Quarter. The main attraction is the Great Synagogue, the largest in Europe and second in size in the world only to the one in Jerusalem. Admission costs 13000 Ft (about 31€), but honestly I suggest you save your money, from my point of view it is not absolutely unmissable (I had fortunately visited it on my first trip, when admission cost half as much, and I already regretted it then anyway). On the other hand, if you are a masochist and still want to splurge, you can also buy tickets online at the Great Synagogue website.
Surrounding the Great Synagogue are the Jewish Cemetery, the Holocaust Museum, the Temple of Heroes, and the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial, a monument in the shape of a weeping willow tree commemorating Hungarian Jews killed by the Nazis (the names of the victims are carved on the leaves).
Then there are two other synagogues, which we did not visit internally, namely the Rumbach and Kazinczy Synagogues, the former dating from the late 1800s and the latter from the early 1900s. Admission is charged; the price should be around €10 for both.
The last thing worth mentioning is the Street Art, which includes several murals, some quite large, such as the one honoring the Hungarian national soccer team led by Ferenc Puskas, known to sports fans not only for his immense technique but also for pointing out that “those who have money spend it, those who don’t watch.”
After our tour of the Jewish Quarter, we head to the airport, taking the usual 100E bus near the Great Synagogue.
Conclusions
Budapest is one of the European cities I have enjoyed the most. It is not huge, but there is really a lot to see. The itinerary described in this article should give a good idea of the main attractions to visit, spreading the time over 3 days. Having less time available, I would cut back on the Central Market area, which in my opinion is not too exciting, shorten the visit to the Citadel, by taking advantage of the public transportation to get to the top, and reluctantly eliminate one of the baths at the hot springs. I was also not particularly thrilled with the Jewish Quarter, but if you have time you can fit it in at the end of the itinerary (as suggested in this article), given the convenient connection to the airport.
Having to make my very personal ranking of the must-see places in the city, I would say:
- Fishermen’s Bastion
- Parliament (especially in the night)
- St. Stephen’s Basilica
Note about costs: Although the memory of my first trip to Budapest, in which I took a whole huge apartment very close to the Parliament for 25€ a night, is distant, the city remains a fairly inexpensive destination in terms of accommodations, food and services. Except for the cost of admission to the Great Synagogue, in my opinion totally disproportionate for what it offers.