“In centuries to come, there will be a time when the Ocean will sweep away the chains of the Universe, and an immense land will appear, and Tethys will reveal new worlds, and there will no longer be a last Thule on the globe.”
Seneca
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Itinerary in pills
- Day 1: Zhygylgan (Fallen Earth), Kapamsay Canyon, Shakpak-Ata Mosque
- Day 2: Torysh, Kokala, Sherkala, Airakty
- Day 3: Tuzbair Salt Flat
- Day 4: Karaman-Ata Necropolis, Ybykty Canyon, Kyzylkup (Tiramisù) Canyon
- Day 5: Kyzylkup, Bokty, Bozjyra (Mars Panorama, Dragon Crest)
- Day 6: Bozjyra (Fangs and valley)
- Day 7: Tuyesu sands and Karakia Cavity
- Conclusions
Introduction
When Seneca uttered the verses with which I introduce you to this article, he was probably unaware of the existence of Mangystau. Yet, I don’t think he could have described the charm of this region of Kazakhstan any better, in such a concise way. It is a place that is nothing short of surreal, where nature reigns supreme and makes everything seem anything but earthly.
The artists who have shaped this authentic work of art are water, wind and time. We are talking about a region that dates back hundreds of millions of years, when the continents were nomads in the middle of the oceans. Most of Mangystau’s natural masterpieces are generally the result of the retreat of the Tethys Ocean, which once covered this vast region.
The Mangystau region is the main reason I decided to organize my trip to Kazakhstan. It is not a destination for everyone, as it requires a fairly well-developed spirit of adaptation. Many places in the region are extremely remote and there are no accommodation facilities of any kind, so you sometimes have to become one with nature. You generally sleep in tents, there are no bathrooms or drinking water, and there is no cell phone coverage, except when you occasionally pass through inhabited villages.
It is theoretically possible to visit Mangystau independently, but the risk-benefit ratio of this option, compared to relying on local guides or agencies, definitely leans toward the latter. This is because, on the one hand, the roads are difficult to navigate for inexperienced drivers (and by experienced, I seriously mean something close to rally drivers!), and on the other hand, managing time and logistics can be very difficult. In all this, it should also be considered that tours, when booked directly through local agencies, are not too expensive.
Itinerary in pills
There are not many local agencies that accompany visitors to Mangystau. I relied on RedMaya, one of the oldest ones, despite the fact that it was only founded just over three years ago. The agency has brought together a group of drivers and guides who were working privately until recently, creating a more structured company. However, it is still possible to rely on drivers and guides who work independently.
RedMaya offers group tours lasting several days, as well as the possibility of organizing private tours. The most frequently scheduled tour is the 7-day tour, which takes place every week, departing on Sunday morning and returning on Saturday evening. Other fairly comprehensive tours are the 5- and 8-day tours, which, however, take place once a month. I decided to opt for the 7-day tour, also in the hope of increasing my chances of finding some travel companions on site. Spoiler: it didn’t go badly at all!
Details of the itineraries can be found on the agency’s website. However, I will give a recap of the 7-day tour.
| Day | Attractions | Night |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Zhygylgan (Fallen Earth), Kapamsay Canyon, Shakpak-Ata Mosque | Kapamsay camp |
| 2 | Torysh, Kokala, Sherkala, Airakty | Airakty camp |
| 3 | Tuzbair salt flat | Yurt Etno camp |
| 4 | Karaman-Ata necropolis, Ybykty Canyon, Kyzylkup (Tiramisù Canyon) | Kyzylkup camp |
| 5 | Kyzylkup, Bokty, Bozjyra (Mars Panorama, Dragon Crest) | Bozjyra camp (altopiano di mezzo) |
| 6 | Bozjyra (Fangs and valley) | Bozjyra camp (Fangs) |
| 7 | Senek dunes and Karakia depression | Aktau |
I visited Kazakhstan between the end of September and the beginning of October 2025. This period coincides with one of the best times to visit the Mangystau region, along with April and May, due to the mild temperatures and statistically clear skies. In the summer months, particularly July and August, temperatures can rise significantly, in some cases even reaching 50 degrees Celsius, while in the winter months, tours in Mangystau are not scheduled due to the extremely unfavorable climate.
Day 1: Zhygylgan (Fallen Earth), Kapamsay Canyon, Shakpak-Ata Mosque
The journey through the Mangystau desert begins in the city of Aktau, which has an international airport (however, I decided to arrive on a domestic flight from Astana the evening before the pick-up).
I am picked up around 9 a.m. from my hotel, the Chagala Inn, and taken to the RedMaya office to complete the paperwork and meet my travel companions. The team consists of four Italians (including myself), a girl from Hong Kong, two English girls, and a Swiss family that includes a 13-year-old girl, who will soon become the group’s mascot. The RedMaya team includes four drivers (one per car) and a guide. The guide speaks fluent English, unlike the drivers, who only communicate in Kazakh or, at best, Russian.
We leave the RedMaya office mid-morning and, after passing several oil fields in the region, we soon find ourselves in the middle of the steppe. Not far from Aktau, we lose our phone signal and remain isolated until the following day.
Zhygylgan, Fallen Land
The first destination of the day is Zhygylgan, known to friends as “Fallen Earth“. It is a depression dating back about 15 million years, which owes its name to its geological origin, resulting from the collapse of a vast limestone area that once overlooked the sea. The geological age of this depression has been determined from the animal remains found in the area, including those belonging to saber-toothed tigers. Due to its somewhat disturbing appearance, Zhygylgan is sometimes referred to as the “Mouth of the Earth.”
The visit to the site begins at the viewpoint located near the car park, which offers a wide view of the depression and a glimpse of the Caspian Sea in the distance. The landscape looks like the aftermath of a devastating landslide. After taking the usual photos at the viewpoint, we enter the canyon to reach Lake Kuzdakary, with its characteristic heart shape. The descent to the lake is short but more challenging than expected. In fact, according to the guide, in the warmer months, many people are unable to reach the lake and prefer to turn back. The lake is dark in color and has a very high salt concentration.
Shakpak-Ata Mosque
We have lunch near the viewpoint once we return from the lake, enjoying some excellent pasta cooked by our drivers. After lunch, we head to the second stop of the day, the underground mosque of Shakpak-Ata. The mosque dates back to approximately the 14th-15th century and is dedicated to Shakpak-Ata, a figure linked to Sufism (a spiritual branch of Islam) who lived as a hermit within its walls. The mosque, which overlooks a necropolis dating back to the 13th/14th century, has a cross-shaped plan and is characterized by the porous structure of its limestone walls, resulting from erosion by the Tethys Ocean.
Kapamsay Canyon
The last stop of the day is Kapamsay Canyon, where we set up camp. The canyon dates back to the Jurassic-Cretaceous period (meaning it is over 60 million years old), stretches for about 4 km and reaches a depth of 70 meters. The rocks are mainly composed of gypsum, which is why they are so white.
We first observe the canyon from the viewpoint, which allows us to appreciate the various shades of color quite well, and then from inside, where we arrive in the hours leading up to sunset. Kapamsay Canyon is definitely my favorite attraction of the first day in Mangystau.
Day 2: Torysh, Kokala, Sherkala, Airakty
Torysh, Valley of Balls
We wake up in Kapamsay Canyon after a rather cold night and set off again around 10 a.m., having seen it in all its beauty in the light of dawn. The first attraction of the day is Torysh, the so-called Valley of the Spheres. From the pictures I had seen before leaving, this place did not seem particularly fascinating to me, but I am happy to have changed my mind after seeing with my own eyes this immense expanse dotted with countless spherical boulders, some reaching 4-5 meters in diameter. The formation of these boulders is due to unique phenomena, which essentially consist of dynamic accumulations of debris on fossil cores subject to vortex motions caused by the drag forces of the Tethys Ocean. The Valley of the Spheres is believed to date back between 60 and 100 million years and is thought to be the area with the highest concentration of stone spheres in the world.
After visiting Torysh, it’s time for lunch, which we eat in a local village. This also gives us access to a phone line and therefore an internet connection for the duration of our stop.
Kokala Canyon
Next, we set off again for Kokala Canyon. The Kazakh word “Kokala” means “blue fortress,” an expression that gives an idea of the predominant color of the rocks. The canyon dates back over 150 million years and its morphology is the result of volcanic phenomena and erosion by water and wind. The shape of the rocks vaguely resembles those of Bryce Canyon in the United States. The canyon does not cover a very large area, but it is truly a delight to behold. Visiting the site is not particularly challenging, but you need to be careful of the soft ground, which consists of layers of clay and limestone.
Sherkala
Once we have explored Kokala Canyon, we head towards Mount Sherkala, officially included in the list of monuments of particular historical and cultural value in Kazakhstan. It is an imposing 308-meter-high mountain consisting mainly of gypsum, which rises in the middle of a wide steppe expanse. Its name means “lion mountain” and derives from the fact that the shape of its longest profile resembles, with a little imagination, a crouching lion. Its shortest profile, on the other hand, looks a bit like a yurt.
The visit to Mount Sherkala is fairly quick, consisting essentially of a panoramic view of the mountain from two points that are easily reached by car.
Airakty
From Mount Sherkala, we move on to the last destination of the day, the Airakty-Shomanai complex, better known as the “Valley of Castles,” according to the definition by Ukrainian poet T. Shevchenko.
The Valley of Castles is, once again, the result of the slow and incessant work of time, water, and wind, which have smoothed the profiles of the mountains, characterized by the presence of ridges and pinnacles. The Valley of Castles area is quite large and, until a few million years ago, was covered, like much of Mangystau, by the Tethys Ocean. The highest mountain in the area reaches 368 meters above sea level.
We arrive in Airakty at sunset, the ideal time to appreciate the colors of the mountains and the expanse in which they are located. In the area, we also find many camels and dromedaries, which we enjoy photographing. We divide our visit to the Valley of Castles into two parts, dedicating the first to exploring the area from the plain and the second, postponed until the following morning, to climbing one of the most characteristic mountains. The climb is not particularly difficult and allows us to observe the valley from an excellent angle. The Valley of Castles is, in my opinion, the most evocative attraction of the day.
Day 3: Tuzbair Salt Flat
We start the day by visiting Airakty again early in the morning and then get back in the car to head for the salt flats of Tuzbair, which we want to explore far and wide. We arrive at the site after lunch, which we eat in a village again (so we are connected to the network for the duration of the meal). Unfortunately, it is very windy and the sky is overcast, which prevents us from fully enjoying the place, although we still manage to appreciate its charm.
The visit to Tuzbair is divided into two parts, the first dedicated to exploring the lower part and the salt flats, and the second to the incredible view offered by the panoramic viewpoint at the top. The place is characterized by white chalk and limestone cliffs smoothed by the elements and the Tethys Ocean. The most distinctive feature of the cliff is the so-called arch, a formation that stands out among the ridges. It is all truly beautiful.
With a little luck, you can see the pools of water that form after the rains, but we are unable to see them. Fortunately, I had seen some beautiful pools at Lake Assale in Danakil, so I am not too disappointed.
After visiting the salt flats, we head to an Ethno Yurt camp, where we spend the night sleeping in normal beds in a shared yurt. At the camp, we also have the opportunity to take a hot shower, which will be the only one of the tour. A musical performance was also planned for the evening, but it was canceled due to an unexpected event involving the musicians.
Day 4: Karaman-Ata Necropolis, Ybykty Canyon, Kyzylkup (Tiramisù) Canyon
The first three days were spectacular, to say the least, but almost nothing compared to what we will see starting today.
Karaman-Ata Necropolis
Let’s start with the Karaman-Ata complex, consisting of a vast necropolis and the largest underground mosque in Mangystau. Like Mount Sherkala, this complex is also on the list of monuments of particular historical and cultural interest in Kazakhstan. The mosque dates back to around the 12th century, while the necropolis, which contains tombs and mausoleums, is of more recent origin. The mosque consists of three rooms, one of which, according to legend, is the resting place of Karaman-Ata, a spiritual figure linked to Sufism.
Ybykty Canyon (Porous Gorge)
Next, we visit Ybykty Canyon, also known as “Porous Gorge.” It is not a very large canyon, but it is breathtakingly beautiful. The canyon is formed by porous limestone rocks, which, according to scholars, date back over 40 million years, the result of river erosion and the deposition of various types of debris.
It is possible to descend into the canyon to appreciate it in all its elegance, an experience that we naturally do not deprive ourselves of. The gorge vaguely resembles Antelope Canyon due to the contours of the rocks and the size of the narrow passages.
The visit to the Ybykty Canyon does not take very long and ends at the end of the morning. We have lunch again in a village, which will be the last time we have phone connection before returning to Aktau (on the last day of the tour).
Kyzylkup (Tiramisù Canyon)
After lunch, during which we also visit the village market, we reach one of the most incredible places in the region, Kyzylkup, known to most as Tiramisu Canyon, due to its layered coloring that vaguely resembles the typical Italian dessert.
The canyon consists of a succession of red and white hills, resulting from the presence of iron and gypsum (among other things), which alternate in layers, creating a surreal sight. The layered coloring is once again the result of the relentless work of the Tethys Ocean. In the Tiramisu Canyon area, it is particularly easy to find shark teeth and other ancient fossils.
We arrive near Kyzylkup around sunset, the ideal time to best observe the colors of the rocks. The area is quite large, so we dedicate not only sunset to our visit, but also a good part of the following morning, including sunrise. The hills that make up the canyon are not very high, so it is relatively easy to reach the top of the canyon with minimal effort and then descend and climb back up several times. The beauty of the place is truly breathtaking, among the most incredible I have ever seen. I’ll let a few snapshots speak for themselves.
Day 5: Kyzylkup, Bokty, Bozjyra (Mars Panorama, Dragon Crest)
We wake up before dawn at our camp at Kyzylkup and climb up the canyon to enjoy it in the first light of day. Then we drive to a nearby area of the canyon in search of shark teeth (not to take home, of course!).
Bokty
We then move a few meters to get a closer look at Mount Bokty, a small mountain 165 meters high with a flat summit and the same color shades as the Kyzylkup mountains. You can see the mountain in the distance from the Tiramisu Canyon. Mount Bokty dates back to the Cretaceous period and is one of the region’s best-known attractions, partly because it is depicted on the 1000 Tenge banknote. The visit to the mountain is fairly quick, just enough time to try climbing a little and take some photos.
Bozjyra: Mars Panorama
At this point, we leave Kyzylkup and head towards the attraction that, according to the guidebooks, is the highlight of Mangystau: the Bozjyra Valley. After seeing the Tiramisu Canyon, I find it hard to believe that its beauty can be surpassed so easily, but in the end I agree that it’s a fair draw. The Bozjyra Valley offers a completely different scenery from Kyzylkup, with white as the backdrop to incredible and boundless landscapes. It is no coincidence that the term “Bozjyra” means “Valley of Faded Colors.” The white color of the rocks derives, once again, from their composition, mainly chalk and sandstone. Compared to Kyzylkup, it can be said to be less picturesque but more majestic.
The Bozjyra Valley is quite extensive, so the visit to the site is divided into two days. The first is dedicated to observing the valley from two vantage points on the upper plateau, namely the Panorama of Mars and the Dragon’s Crest, passing through other formations such as Shoky Tau (shaped like a yurt). The second day is mainly dedicated to the so-called Fangs, two fang-shaped rocks, first from a splendid viewpoint on the upper plateau and then from the lower one, and to observing Dragon’s Crest from the bottom and the surrounding valley.
A small note: regarding the Panorama of Mars, I had to point out to the guide that there is another place called this (incorrectly, as the guide later told me) on their social media channels, namely the Karynzharyk Depression, which I thought was what we would be seeing. Unfortunately, this stop, which looks truly spectacular in the photos, is not included in the 7-day tour offered by RedMaya, as it is very far from everything else. In order to visit the Karynzharyk Depression with a group tour, you need to take the 8-day tour.
Our first encounter with the Bozjyra Valley takes place at the Panorama of Mars, and you can imagine why it is called that. The panoramic view offers a glimpse of the main formations of Bozjyra, including Dragon’s Ridge, Fangs, and Borly Tau, the latter with its flat top. The landscape here looks like it has been drawn and is truly breathtaking.
Bozjyra: Dragon Crest and Shoky Tau
After gazing in awe at the panorama of Mars, we reach the second viewpoint of the day, which offers a view of Dragon’s Crest, a formation named for reasons that, once again, I will leave you to guess. This is probably the most iconic spot in the Bozjyra Valley and offers the opportunity to take some very photogenic shots.
We have lunch with a view of the ridge and continue towards the middle plateau, where we set up camp. Before arriving at our chosen campsite, we pass through Shoky Tau, a sublime place that we enjoy photographing at different times of day (and therefore with different lighting).
Day 6: Bozjyra (Fangs and valley)
It is our last full day, and expectations are very high given what has gone before. The day is entirely dedicated to the Bozjyra Valley, in particular the Fangs, which we explore first from the viewpoint, reachable by an easy walk, but not simple for those who suffer from vertigo (one person in our group was unable to make it to the end for this reason). The view of the Fangs from the viewpoint is, once again, breathtaking. I honestly cannot choose a winner among the three viewpoints visited in Bozjyra.
Once back in our cars, we continue directly towards the valley, where we set up our tents for the last time. The location chosen for the camp is right below the Fangs, and allows us to reach the Dragon’s Crest from the bottom, passing through the middle of the valley. This is perhaps my favorite spot in the Bozjyra Valley, especially in the hours around sunset.
Day 7: Tuyesu sands and Karakia Cavity
We leave the camp mid-morning, after a final walk in the valley, and head back towards Aktau. Before arriving in the city and ending our tour, we still have two stops to add to our extensive list.
Tuyesu Sands
The first are the Tuyesu sands, or sand dunes located near the village of Senek. The dunes are easy to climb, with a maximum height of 10 meters, but it is advisable to wear hiking shoes due to the possibility of close encounters with certain species of snakes (which did not happen to us). The scenery of the dunes is not bad, but absolutely negligible for those who, like myself, have had the opportunity to climb Big Daddy or Dune 7 in Namibia. In Senek, meanwhile, we are reconnected with the outside world.
Karakia
After our last lunch in the village, we make a brief stop at the viewpoint that allows us to observe the Karakia Depression, the lowest point in Kazakhstan and the fifth lowest in the world, at 132 meters below sea level (slightly deeper than Dallol). The name of the depression literally means “steep black slope,” a definition that accurately describes the landscape. The depression can only be seen from the viewpoint; the rest of the area is inaccessible. However, in my opinion, the view is not particularly breathtaking.
Finally, we return to Aktau, arriving around 4 p.m., well ahead of the time indicated on RedMaya’s schedule.
Conclusions
Without going into too much detail, I can say with little doubt that the trip to the Mangystau Desert was one of the most beautiful of my life, certainly the best part of the overall trip to Kazakhstan, as I expected. Truly indescribable and unique places, each of which, even taken individually, is worth the price. Every place tells a story of millions of years, every corner leaves even the most insensitive people speechless.
On the other hand, it is not a destination suitable for everyone, as it requires the right spirit and physical and psychological preparation to live in full contact with primordial nature. Nothing impossible, however, for those who are used to certain experiences (or even just for those who, like me, have had the experience of being a scout), but it is important to know what you are getting into.
It is impossible to rank the attractions, so this time I will make an exception and go as far as the top 5:
- The gold and silver medals are a contest without winners or losers between Kyzylkup (Tiramisu Canyon) and Bozjyra Valley. Two very different places but equally exciting overall. Together with Dallol in Ethiopia and Big Daddy/Deadvlei in Namibia, these are the most incredible places visited around the world so far.
- The bronze medal is a bitter battle between Ybykty (Porous Gorge), Tuzbair Salt Flat, and Airakty. Again, don’t ask me to decide on a winner, it would be too difficult.
Looking back, I would probably opt for the 8-day tour, so that I could also include the Karynzharyk Depression, which is often mistakenly confused with the Panorama of Mars (largely due to the travel agency, in this case). I would definitely not opt for tours shorter than 5 days, which could be selected if you have limited time. The 5-day tour completely cuts out the first day of the 7-day tour, which is certainly the least unmissable part, leaving all the other attractions (but slightly shortening the time in the Bozjyra Valley).
Related articles:
