Prague

“Don’t bend it; don’t water it down; don’t try to make it seem logical; don’t change your own soul to follow fashion. Instead, ruthlessly follow your most intense obsessions.”

F. Kafka

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• Itinerary in pills
• Day 1: Castle district (Hradcany), Mala Strana, Petrin Hill and Charles Bridge
  • Castle District (Hradcany)
  • Mala Strana and Petrin Hill
  • Charles Bridge
• Day 2: New Town, Old Town and Jewish quarter
  • New Town (Nove Mesto)
  • Old Town (Stare Mesto)
  • Jewish quarter (Josefov)
• Conclusions

Introduction

A threshold. Legend has it that Prague was born this way, with Princess Libuše’s dream of a man marking the threshold of his doorstep. The name Prague derives from this legend, from the Czech word for “threshold.”

Of all the cities I have seen outside Italy, Prague is one of those that has excited me the most. It is not a very large city, but it is rich in history and unmissable attractions. Its medieval atmosphere gives it a special charm, not least because, among the cities that arose in the Middle Ages, it is one of those that has best preserved the characteristic features of that era, despite having gone through very varied phases over the centuries. Suffice it to say that, before becoming the capital of the Czech Republic, it was the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, Bohemia, and Czechoslovakia, and its recent history has been marked by oppression under the most brutal totalitarian regimes of the 20th century.

From a cultural point of view, Prague is home to one of the oldest universities in the world (Charles University), has been the scene of important artistic events, and is the birthplace of illustrious figures in world literature, above all Kafka and Kundera.

Itinerary in pills

Similar to other Eastern European cities such as Budapest and Krakow, Prague is geographically divided into an upper part, home to the Castle district, and a lower part, which includes the Old Town. Connecting these two macro-areas are a series of bridges over the Vltava River, the most important and famous of which is certainly Charles Bridge, one of the most evocative in the world.

The Castle District is home to several attractions of interest, including, in addition to the Castle itself, the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral. On the same side of the Vltava River, descending from the castle, you arrive at Mala Strana, one of the oldest districts of the city. On the other side of the river is the Old Town (Stare Mesto), located between the Jewish Quarter (Josefov) and the New Town (Nove Mesto).

I have visited Prague twice, seeing roughly the same attractions but following two different itineraries. In this article, I suggest an itinerary that allows you to visit all the main districts in two full days. Based on the layout of the city described above, the itinerary includes a visit to the Castle District, Mala Strana, and the area around Charles Bridge on the first day, with the addition of Petrin Hill, while the second day includes a visit to the attractions spread across the New Town, Old Town, and Jewish Quarter.

Below is a summary table with the routes mapped out for each district (which can be covered on foot, unless otherwise indicated).

Day	Attractions	Maps
1	Castle, Mala Strana, Petrin Hill, Chales Bridge	Castle, Mala Strana and Petrin Hill
2	New Town, Old Town, Jewish Quarter	Stare Mesto (Old Town) Nove Mesto (New Town) Josefov (Jewish Quarter)

To get to Prague, you can fly to Vaclav Havel Airport (PRG), which is also served by low-cost airlines. From the airport, you can reach the city center by bus or taxi in about 30-40 minutes.

Day 1: Castle district (Hradcany), Mala Strana, Petrin Hill and Charles Bridge

Castle District (Hradcany)

We arrive in the heart of the district comfortably by bus, departing naturally from our B&B. The main attractions of the district are the Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, next to it.

The foundations of the castle date back to the 9th century, but its current form is from the Gothic period. The castle is one of the largest in the world in terms of total area. Its walls also encompass the surrounding neighborhood, which was home not only to the royals, but also to their guards, alchemists, and craftsmen. Among the most interesting parts of the castle, the Powder Tower is definitely worth mentioning.

St. Vitus Cathedral is an enormous Gothic building dating back to the mid-14th century, although it took around 600 years to build! Aesthetically, it resembles St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna. Inside the cathedral are some of the saint’s relics, as well as the fourth oldest royal crown in Europe. Among the most interesting parts are the Chapel of St. Wenceslas, containing the tomb of the saint, and the South Tower.

On the other side of the castle from St. Vitus Cathedral is St. George’s Basilica, built about 200 years before the cathedral in Romanesque style. Continuing past the Basilica, the Golden Lane is a must-see, a street lined with a series of colorful houses where royal blacksmiths and alchemists lived, trying to produce gold (hence the name of the street). Franz Kafka also lived at number 22 on this street.

After visiting the castle and cathedral, we descend the castle hill towards Mala Strana. Near the castle, we immediately find Schwarzenberg Palace, now the Prague National Gallery, and the Loreto Convent, one of the most important shrines in the city, founded in the mid-17th century and inspired by the Shrine of the Holy House of Loreto (Ancona, Italy). It is worth visiting the interior of the monastery to appreciate its Baroque style and frescoes.

Continuing along the road, we arrive in a few minutes at Strahov Monastery, founded in the 12th century. The most impressive part of the monastery is undoubtedly its library, dating back to the 17th century, which contains over 200,000 volumes and is decorated in Baroque style. The panoramic view of the city and Mala Strana from the monastery is also very beautiful.

Mala Strana and Petrin Hill

The Mala Strana district, literally translatable as “small district,” is one of the oldest districts in the city.

From Strahov Monastery, we proceed along Nerudova Street, named after the writer Jan Neruda and lined with charming buildings bearing medieval names, to reach Mala Strana Square. The square is home to the Holy Trinity Column, a 20-meter obelisk surrounded by statues of the city’s patron saints (St. Wenceslas, the Virgin Mary, and St. John of Nepomuk), built after the plague of the 1700s.

Next, we head towards St. Nicholas Church, the larger of the two churches in Prague dedicated to the saint, dating back to the 18th century and decorated in Baroque style inside. An interesting fact about the church organ is that it was played by Mozart during his time in the city.

It takes us about half a day to visit the Castle district and reach St. Nicholas Church. As a result, it is almost lunchtime when we take a tram to the funicular (located at the Ujezd stop) that takes us to Petrin Tower, a miniature replica of the Eiffel Tower located on Petrin Hill. The tower is surrounded by one of the largest green areas in the city and offers splendid panoramic views.

Descending from the hill, we pass by the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, located near the tram shelters. The memorial consists of a complex of bronze statues depicting human figures in various states of disintegration, commemorating the victims of Communism in the Czech Republic (approximately 400,000 people, including those exiled, executed, and who died in detention).

We then follow the river towards Shooters’ Island (Strelecky), a small island that we reach by taking the elevator from the Legion Bridge, which crosses the Vltava River. The island offers excellent views of the old town. From the Legion Bridge, you can also enjoy one of the best views of the city.

Let’s retrace our steps to end our tour of Mala Strana with Kampa Island. The island, with its picturesque appearance, offers excellent views of the old town and is home to, among other things, the Grand Prior’s Mill, dating back to the 17th century and belonging to the Knights of Malta.

Not far from the mill is the Church of St. Mary of the Victory, known to believers for its statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague, donated to the city by Spain in the 17th century.

Finally, also near the mill, don’t miss one of Prague’s most iconic recent attractions, the John Lennon Wall. The wall is painted with murals, generally on the theme of peace, which change constantly (a bit like Hosier Lane in Melbourne). The wall was painted after the musician’s assassination to spread messages of peace and freedom, particularly against communist oppression (during communism, even listening to pop music was forbidden throughout the country).

Charles Bridge

At this point, the day is drawing to sunset, the perfect time to visit Charles Bridge, one of Prague’s most important attractions. The bridge divides the Mala Strana district from the old town, spanning the Vltava River.

The first stone of the bridge dates back to the Romanesque period, when King Vladislav I had the so-called “Judith Bridge” built in honor of his wife, which was destroyed two centuries later by a flood. After its destruction, the bridge was rebuilt to better withstand the elements, taking the name by which it is currently known from King Charles IV, who ordered its reconstruction in the mid-14th century.

As we arrive from Mala Strana, we begin our visit to the bridge from the tower located on the castle side. The tower is recognizable by the four banners located on the arch, each representing the states of Bohemia under King Wenceslas IV, son of King Charles IV. Next to the main tower is a smaller tower, Judith’s Tower, dating back to the first construction of the bridge. Before reaching the tower, I would like to point out the Pissing Fountain, the work of artist David Cerny, located near the Kafka Museum. The fountain consists of two human statues emptying their bladders into a pool shaped like the country.

Looking out from the bridge towards Kampa Island, the canal that can be seen is called the Devil’s Canal, named after a legend that says that in the 17th century, a very evil woman lived in one of the houses there.

On both sides of the bridge, there are a series of statues depicting important biblical scenes and characters. Among these, the following are worth mentioning:

1. The Lamentation of Christ, showing the Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene mourning the death of Jesus, beneath a cross with the risen Christ.
2. The Crucifixion, depicting Jesus crucified flanked by John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary
3. The statue of St. Neopomuk, who drowned in the Vltava River at the end of the 14th century. The saint is one of the city’s patron saints, as he refused to reveal some of the queen’s secrets to the king, for which he was sentenced to death. The statue is recognizable by the 5-star halo, which according to legend appeared on his head at the moment he died.
4. The statue of St. Ludmilla, mother of St. Wenceslas, shows the saint teaching the future king to read the Bible.
5. The statue of St. Vitus, which depicts lions approaching the saint before his martyrdom.

At the end of the bridge, on the old town side, there is a second Gothic tower, dating back to the mid-14th century, built as a control tower for the city. Over the centuries, the severed heads of Protestant leaders were displayed on the tower (early 17th century).

Behind the tower, on the old town side, is the square dedicated to the Knights of the Cross, guardians of the bridge until its first destruction in the 14th century. In the center of the square stands a bronze statue of Charles IV, while on two sides are the Church of the Savior, now part of the National Library, and the Church of St. Francis of Assisi, recognizable by the contrast between the bright colors of the dome and the dark colors of the facade, which is also worth visiting inside.

Once you pass the tower, walking south along the river, you will arrive at the courtyard of Klub Lavka, which offers what is probably the best view of Charles Bridge and the Castle. You shouldn’t have much trouble finding it, as there will be people taking photos there at any time of the day or night.

This concludes our first intense day in the Czech capital.

Day 2: New Town, Old Town and Jewish quarter

New Town (Nove Mesto)

The most important part of our day is undoubtedly the visit to the Old Town. However, for reasons of geographical convenience, we begin our tour de force from the new part of the city.

The first stop is Wenceslas Square, a huge rectangular square that stretches out lengthwise. The square is dedicated to King Wenceslas, Duke of Bohemia in the early 1900s, who became one of the patron saints of Prague after being murdered by his brother. Today, the square is a lively center open to commercial activities, but in the past it was the scene of events that shaped the history of the city, especially in the early 1900s. Firstly, the protests that led to the formation of Czechoslovakia after almost 400 years of Habsburg rule, with the proclamation of independence by leader Alois Jirasek. Subsequently, the square was first the place where Prague was declared part of the USSR and then the place where the Velvet Revolution ended with the proclamation of the birth of today’s Czech Republic.

The square is home to several attractions of interest:

1. The National Museum, a majestic building dating back to the early 1800s and the oldest museum in Bohemia.
2. The bronze statue of St. Wenceslas, located in the center of the square and depicting the saint in battle on horseback.
3. The Lucerna Gallery Mall, which houses David Cerny’s parody of the statue of St. Wenceslas, depicting the horse upside down.
4. The Memorial to Jan Palach and Jan Zajic, who set themselves on fire in the square in 1969 in protest against Soviet oppression (another very important event for the nation).

Near the National Museum, I mention the Opera House, built at the end of the 19th century and reopened to the public only in the 1990s, after having been unused for a long time.

Opposite the National Museum is the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. The church is named after a legend, according to which the Virgin Mary appeared in a dream to a merchant, asking him to build a church where snow had fallen the following day, which happened despite it being Summer. The church dates back to the end of the 14th century. Nearby, the kinetic sculpture of Kafka’s Head and the statue of Freud hanging upside down, both works by David Cerny, are worth an Instagram moment.

We then head to Charles Square, a public park formerly designed as a cattle market. Before reaching the square, we pass by the new Town Hall (which is not really that new, given that its current form dates back to the early 15th century), a building linked to the historic event of the First Defenestration of Prague, during which some members of the Catholic council were thrown out of a window for refusing to release Jan Hus from prison. In addition to the New Town Hall, the Church of St. Ignatius stands out in the square, while just outside the green space is a curious statue of a man with an umbrella, the work of Czech artist M. Trpak, symbolizing uncertainty and precariousness (the work is in fact called “Slight Uncertainty”).

We then continue on to one of Prague’s most famous attractions, the Dancing House, a building inspired by the genius of Salvador Dalí, designed by American architect Frank Gehry and dating back to the 1990s.

At this point, we walk along the river northwards to reach Zofin Palace, dating back to the mid-19th century and built in honor of Princess Sofia (“Zofie” in Czech). The palace has hosted several important events, including concerts by composers of the caliber of Liszt, Wagner, and Tchaikovsky. We conclude our tour of the new town with the Prague National Theater, a majestic building dating back to the late 19th century.

Old Town (Stare Mesto)

It is mid-morning when we begin our tour of the historic center. We start where we left off the previous evening, at the National Library (Clementinum), recognized as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world due to its interior decorations. It was in the observatory of this building that Kepler formulated his famous astronomical laws.
We then head towards the central square, passing first by the Town Hall. Near the main building, an example of Art Nouveau, is the Vltava fountain (the Czech name for the Moldava River), considered one of the most beautiful sculptures in the city (although the one visible today is actually a replica).
A few steps from the fountain is the so-called Small Square (Male Namesti). The square is recognizable by the Iron Fountain in its center, considered the oldest in the city. Among the most characteristic buildings is Rott House, with its masonry facade.
A little further on, we enter the heart of the historic center. The first characteristic building is the so-called House at the Minute. The name does not derive from the unit of measurement of time, but from the small size of the tobacco packets that were sold in the building, which was formerly used as a tobacco shop. The building is easily recognizable by its black facade with white paintings depicting biblical and mythological scenes. Franz Kafka also lived in the house for a short period.

The next stop is the most important part of our tour of the old town. It is Staromestske Namesti, or Old Town Square. The square is home to a number of important attractions, among the most famous in the city:

1. The astronomical clock, which dates back to the 15th century and is the oldest working clock in the world. The beauty and complexity of the clock gave rise to a legend, according to which the creator of the clock was blind, so that he could not replicate it elsewhere. Every hour, you can watch the spectacle of all the components in action.
2. The Church of St. Nicholas, dating back to the mid-18th century and built as part of a Benedictine monastery. Internally, the church is much less interesting than its namesake in the Mala Strana district.
3. The Jan Hus Memorial, located in the center of the square and dating back to the early 1900s, dedicated to the nation’s most important historical figure, founder of the Hussite Protestant movement between the 14th and 15th centuries, for which he was burned alive.
4. The Cathedral of St. Mary of Tyn, probably the most iconic building in Prague, dates back to the 14th century and features two imposing towers topped with large spires.
5. The Goltz-Kinsky Palace, the finest example of Rococo architecture in Prague, now part of the National Gallery. The building dates back to the mid-18th century and takes its name from Count Goltz, who had it built, and Count Kinsky, who bought it after the former’s death. The palace has been the site of important historical moments: the birth of Baroness Bertha Suttner-Kinsky, the first woman to win the Nobel Peace Prize, the studies of Franz Kafka (the palace was home to the German Grammar School for a few years), and the proclamation of the oppressive policies of the Communist Party by its leader K. Gottwald.
6. Memorial Cross Park, which celebrates Bohemian resistance during the Thirty Years’ War, and in particular the date of execution of several nobles involved in the resistance.
7. Storch House, named after the owner of the house, who purchased it at the end of the 19th century. The facade of the house features murals divided into three sections. In the center of the facade is a painting of St. Wenceslas on horseback. Interesting fact: next to the house, at number 15, Einstein used to delight in playing the violin.
8. Stone Bell House, dating back to the 15th century, having a corner with a bell carved into it, which, according to legend, fell onto the building after breaking away from the Cathedral of St. Mary of Tyn.

Continuing beyond the square, the House at the Golden Ring is curious. Dating back to the 17th century in its latest version, it is so named because of a golden ring on the facade, which according to legend fell from a ghost.

Next, we arrive at the Church of St. James, the second largest church in Prague after St. Vitus Cathedral. The church is recognizable by the three Baroque reliefs on the façade, depicting St. Anthony of Padua, St. Francis of Assisi, and St. James. The most interesting part of the church is the interior, with its beautiful frescoes and decorations, as well as, for the more curious, the mummified arm visible at the entrance, which according to legend belonged to a thief who tried to steal the jewels from the altar but was stopped by the statue of the Virgin Mary.

After visiting the church, we continue on our way to the Powder Tower, which also dates back to the Middle Ages, passing through Celetna Lane, the street where the University (Karolinum) founded by King Charles in the mid-14th century is located. This concludes our tour of the old town.

Jewish quarter (Josefov)

At this point, let’s retrace our steps towards Old Town Square to visit the last part of the city we haven’t seen yet, namely the Jewish Quarter. The first Jewish communities settled in Prague around the year 1000, taking a couple of centuries to consolidate, until reaching the peak of their development around the 1500s. From this peak, the quarter declined under Habsburg rule, during which, in the mid-1700s, Jews were expelled from the city by order of Empress Maria Theresa. After being reinstated by Joseph II, son of the same empress, the Jews experienced their hardest years first during the Nazi occupation, when most of them were deported to concentration camps, and later under communist oppression, which caused almost half of Prague’s Jewish population to flee.
We turn onto Paris Street to reach the first attraction in the Jewish Quarter, the Maisel Synagogue, named in honor of the most important member of the Jewish community at the end of the 16th century, who contributed to the development of the neighborhood. Today, the synagogue is part of the Jewish Museum in Prague.
In addition to the Maisel Synagogue, there are several other synagogues in the neighborhood:

1. Pinkas Synagogue, dating back to the mid-16th century and named in honor of the nobleman’s grandson who had it built. Inside the synagogue, there is a wall engraved with the names of all 80,000 Jews who were deported during the Nazi era.
2. Klausen Synagogue, dating back to the 17th century and so named because of its smaller size compared to the Maisel Synagogue (“klaus” in German means “small”).
3. Spanish Synagogue, inspired by the Alhambra in Granada.
4. The Old-New Synagogue, the oldest active synagogue in Europe, dating back to the 13th century. It is so named because it is more recent than the Old School, formerly located on the site of the Spanish Synagogue. The legend of the Golem, created to defend the Jewish people, is linked to this synagogue.

As you move from one synagogue to another, there are a number of other points of interest worth mentioning:

1. The old cemetery, the only place in the city where Jews could bury their loved ones until the end of the 18th century. Over 10,000 bodies are buried in the cemetery, with the oldest tomb dating back to the 15th century. Among the curiosities of the cemetery are the slanted tombstones. The slanting of the gravestones is due to the fact that, over time, they were built on top of each other due to lack of space.
2. The Jewish Town Hall, dating back to the late 16th century and built at the behest of Maisel. Among the building’s peculiarities are the two clocks on the main façade, the first with Roman numerals and the second with Hebrew characters.
3. The monument to Franz Kafka, inspired by one of his stories, which depicts the writer in small size on the shoulders of the same writer without his head in larger size. The statue is located near the house where Kafka lived for several years.
4. The Rudolfinum, or National Theater, located on the banks of the Vltava River and dating back to the late 19th century.

Further away from the neighborhood, but still linked to the Jewish community, is the colorful Jubilee Synagogue, dating back to the early 1900s and located not far from the old town.

Conclusions

Prague is the city I liked the most among all those I visited outside Italy, perhaps on a par with St. Petersburg. It is a city that is both large and people-friendly, easy to get around and rather well managed, but above all rich in art. Every corner of the city tells a different and fascinating story.

It is difficult to rank the places that impressed me the most, but I’ll try:

1. Gold medal goes to the views of the Vltava River with Charles Bridge and Prague Castle in the background, stunning both during the day and at night.
2. Silver medal to the Old Town Square, rich in detail and historic buildings, each with its own style and beauty.
3. Bronze medal to the Castle district, particularly along the road from Golden Lane to Loreto Convent, passing by St. Vitus Cathedral.

In terms of costs, the city is quite cheap, even though inflation has also reached it in recent years. Be careful during the Christmas period, as accommodation prices increase exponentially.

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