Seville in 3 days

“All men dream but not in the same way. Those who dream at night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the morning to discover its fatuity, but day dreamers are dangerous people because they can act on their dream with open eyes to make it possible.” – from the movie “Lawrence of Arabia”, by D. Lean, 1962

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• Itinerary in brief
• Day 1: Alcazar, Cathedral, Archivo de Indias, Barrio Santa Cruz
• Day 2: Plaza de España, Parque Maria Luisa, Plaza de Toros, Triana
• Day 3: Casa de Pilatos, Las Setas, Museo de Bellas Artes, Macarena
• Conclusions

Introduction

When I was growing up, the first images I linked to Spain when I heard about it were those of bullfights, bullfighters in their strange clothes, and men playing guitars to accompany the movements of Flamenco dancers during “fiestas.” Even today, many people improperly attribute to those same images the idea of “real Spain,” actually identifying the entire country with one of its most distinctive regions. Among the cities of Andalusia that I have had the pleasure of visiting, Seville is the one that most evoked in me the feeling of being on the set of a film about the Spanish traditions most present in the common imagination. Indeed, it is no coincidence that it is considered the artistic and cultural hub of southern Spain, as well as one of the main economic and social centers of the entire country. A city characterized among other things by the Arabesque style, the result of the centuries-long Arab rule that invested Spain until the end of the 15th century, traces of which can still be seen, for example, on the most important buildings in the historic center. After all, cinematic milestones such as “Lawrence of Arabia” were filmed precisely in Seville (the introductory quote, as always, is not coincidental), testifying to the city’s strong Arab-derived cultural imprint.

I had the opportunity to visit Seville a few years ago twice, a short time apart. For my first trip I chose the month of July, and I could not have made a worse choice. In fact, I remember that when I landed at the airport in the late afternoon, the thermometer read 46 degrees! I’ll let you imagine the days that followed, in which I visited the city under the scorching sun (as I walked, I cooled off a bit from time to time with the cool misted air that escaped from the installations provided by some locals). The second time was instead in December, during which I extended my visit to two other beautiful cities in Andalusia, namely Granada and Córdoba, which I will tell about in other articles. That choice, or rather that of my friends who had decided to get married there in those days, was definitely happier. In fact, the temperature was really pleasant, despite the fact that we were at the gates of Winter.

Itinerary in brief

Although it is not a huge city, Seville really offers a lot to see. The itinerary I propose in this article is the result of what I had the chance to visit overall in my two trips. In addition to taking into account the opening hours of the buildings of interest that I recommend visiting internally, I have broken down the stops so as to try to minimize the total distance to be covered on foot, which is definitely the way I suggest visiting the city, although the public transportation network still works quite well when necessary. In the discussion, I will assume that I have 3 full days.

Day	Attractions	Map
1	Alcazar, Cathedral and Giralda, Archivo General de Indias, Barrio Santa Cruz, Barrio San Bartolomè	Map day 1
2	Plaza de España, Parque de Maria Luisa, Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, Torre del Oro, Triana	Map day 2
3	Museo de Bellas Artes, Metropol Parasol (Las Setas), Casa de Pilatos, Basilica Macarena	Map day 3

Note: for some photos, I acknowledge the courtesy of 00 Architecture.

Day 1: Alcazar, Cathedral, Archivo de Indias, Barrio Santa Cruz

We begin the first day at our disposal from one of the city’s main attractions, namely the Alcazar, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It is a royal palace composed of a complex of buildings of predominantly Mudejar architecture, a term referring to the Muslims who remained in the Iberian Peninsula after the reconquest of the Moorish kingdoms by the Christians in 1492. The entrance fee, which can also be purchased online at the Alcazar’s website for €15.50 (base price), includes the palace and the royal gardens, both of which can be visited from 9 a.m. If you visit the Alcazar on a Monday, it is useful to know that in the afternoon, from 4 p.m. in the winter months and 6 p.m. in the summer months, admission is free (but must be booked on the website). The entrance to the palace coincides with the Puerta del Leon, named for the mosaic placed on the facade that depicts a lion with a cross in its claws.

Among the major points of interest inside the Alcazar are worth mentioning:

1. The Mudejar Palace, main building of the palace used for court meetings
2. The Patio de La Monteria, access courtyard to the Mudejar Palace
3. Baths of Donna Maria de Padilla, or water-collecting chambers so named in honor of the wife of Peter I called the Cruel, who apparently disfigured her face with boiling oil and later also became a nun in order to avoid being with her not-so-beloved husband.
4. The Courtyard of the Virgins (Patio de las Doncellas), dedicated to the legend that the Moors demanded 100 virgins every year as tribute to the Christian kingdoms of the Iberian Peninsula.
5. The House of Commerce (Casa de Contractacion), wanted to regulate trade with the New World after its discovery.
6. The Patio del Yeso, a courtyard with a small pool adjacent to the Hall of Justice.

Absolutely unmissable then are the Royal Gardens, especially if you are a fan of the “Game of Thrones” series, as several scenes were filmed there. The gardens are divided into different areas, date back over 1,000 years and contain over 200 species of plants. The best known parts are definitely the Ladies’ Garden, the Poets’ Garden and Mercury Pond. Find a complete guide to the gardens here. Next to the Alcazar Gardens are then located the Murillo Gardens. For a visit to the Alcazar and the gardens, you should consider a couple of hours.

Leaving the building on Calle S. Fernando, it is possible to catch a glimpse on the opposite side of the street of the Real Fabrica de Tobacos, an old factory now housing the University Rectorate.

Proceeding next in a northerly direction on Avenida de la Constitucion, one of the main streets of the historic center, we come to the Archivo General de Indias, among the city’s most important buildings, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The building, originally conceived as a merchants’ lodge, dates back to the 17th century and contains some of the world’s most important documents on the discovery and conquest of the New World. Admission is free, and on weekdays it is open until 4:30 p.m. (except Mondays, when it is closed), and until 1:30 p.m. on holidays. The Archivo de Indias is adjacent to the Cathedral, but before arriving there I suggest continuing on Avenida de la Constitucion to visit the Plaza del Cabildo, a small hidden square that owes its name to its original belonging to the Chapter (Cabildo) of the Cathedral, and observe the picturesque historic arabesque-style buildings along the street. Among them, I particularly mention the La Adriatica building.

Now comes the turn of Seville Cathedral, more precisely Cathedral of Santa Maria de la Sede, among the city’s main attractions and also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (open 10:45 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Sunday, when it is open from 1:30 to 6 p.m.). It is the largest cathedral in all of Spain and among the largest in the world, among other things housing the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Probably the best known part of the cathedral, however, is the Giralda, or bell tower, just over 100 meters high. It is possible to walk up to a height of about 70 meters via a series of circular ramps, originally designed in place of the classic stairways to allow horses to climb more easily. Finally, the north side of the cathedral overlooks the Patio de los Naranjos.

One of the best views of the Giralda can be appreciated from Plaza del Patio de Banderas, the access point to the Plaza del Triunfo, which connects the Cathedral and the Alcazar. The plaza is among the most important in the city and owes its name to its original use as a venue for ceremonies held during visits by foreign dignitaries.

The Cathedral, the Archivo de Indias, and the Alcazar are located in Barrio Santa Cruz, the most important district of the historic center, in which other major attractions of interest are also located:

1. Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, which overlooks the Cathedral and houses the Archbishop’s Palace.
2. Casa de Salinas, a noble house named after the family that acquired the property.
3. Plaza Santa Cruz, where the original church of Santa Cruz was located.
4. Plaza de Dona Elvira, created by the redevelopment of the neighborhood in the early 1900s, entirely pedestrian friendly.
5. Hospital los Venerables, a Baroque-style building built in the 17th century to provide housing for the poor and elderly.

The neighborhood is also home to a number of quaint establishments, in fact I would suggest stopping here to refresh yourself with some tapas.

Next to Barrio Santa Cruz is Barrio San Bartolomè, which houses among others the Baroque Church of Santa Maria la Blanca. The church is worth visiting internally, but care must be taken with the opening hours; in fact, public visits are not allowed on weekends (when masses are normally celebrated, however). A church website is also available for all information. Another important attraction in Barrio San Bartolomè is the Casa de Pilatos, but for reasons of optimizing the route (it also deserves a more in-depth visit internally), in the itinerary presented in this article it has been included in later days. For the evening, I suggest stopping at one of the many venues in the neighborhood, perhaps attending a Flamenco show, or heading back toward Barrio Santa Cruz.

Day 2: Plaza de España, Parque Maria Luisa, Plaza de Toros, Triana

We start with our second day’s tour from one of the city’s most important attractions, which of all is the one I personally prefer, namely Plaza de España, located inside Maria Luisa Park. It is a very large semicircular square built in the early 1900s in the Regionalist style, representing the embrace between Spain and its former colonies. The main building is home to government offices, while the rest of the square features a fountain, two towers, one to the south and one to the north, and a canal spanned by four bridges, symbolizing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. Also among the most characteristic elements of the square are the benches and ceramic ornaments that recall the Spanish provinces. Plaza de España, besides being my favorite attraction in the entire city, is also the square I appreciate most outside of Italy (tied perhaps with Moscow’s Red Square). For this reason, too, I suggest taking your time to visit the square and the arcades from every angle, and perhaps arriving early enough to be able to see it without too much confusion.

Leaving the square, continue with a visit to Maria Luisa Park, a public park named after the Duchess of Montpensier, who donated it to the city in the late 1800s (the gardens previously belonged to the San Telmo Palace). The park has free access starting at 10 a.m. and houses several attractions of interest within it. Among the most important are the Museum of Popular Arts and Culture and the Arqueological Museum in Plaza de America (both free for EU citizens), the Lope de Vega Theater, Mount Gurugú, a work celebrating those who fell in the Battle of Annual, the Isleta de Pajaros, the Fuente de las Ranas, and for the more romantic, the Glorieta de Becquer.

After the tour of the park, we walk along the Guadalquivir along Paseo de Las Delicias to Palacio San Telmo. The palace was built in the 17th century as the College of the University of Mercadares and became, after various vicissitudes, the seat of the Autonomous Government of Andalusia, a function it has held since 1989.

Continuing along Paseo de Cristobal Colon, we encounter the Torre del Oro, a watchtower originally erected by the Moors in the 13th century, which now houses the Naval Museum and offers spectacular panoramic views of the Guadalquivir. Admission costs 3€, and access is allowed until 7 pm.

We make at this point a small detour from the Paseo de C. Colon to reach the Iglesia y Hospital de la Caridad, a 17th-century Baroque-style building built to care for the needy. The most interesting part is the church, which houses inside works by Valdes Leal and Murillo (paintings and frescoes) and the altar by Bernardo Simon de Pineda. Admission costs 8€ (base price for adults), proceeds are donated to the Brotherhood of Charity. It is open from 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. between Monday and Friday, and between 2 p.m. and 7 p.m. on weekends.

Returning to the Guadalquivir Riverfront, we come to one of Seville’s best-known attractions, namely the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, the oldest in Spain, built in the 18th century in the Baroque style. Admission costs 10€ (adult price), opening hours are from 9:30 am to 7:30 pm.

The last stop of the day is the Triana district, which is accessed from the Isabel II Bridge. In addition to the picturesque alleys and many typical establishments (I suggest stopping here for dinner), the neighborhood is home to several attractions, including:

1. Calle Betis, a narrow street along the Guadalquivir River that offers a beautiful view of the city.
2. Real Parroquia de Senora Santa Ana, the first Christian temple erected after the Reconquista.
3. Castillo San Jorge, former seat of the Inquisition, now used as a museum.
4. Centro de la Ceramica.

Day 3: Casa de Pilatos, Las Setas, Museo de Bellas Artes, Macarena

The main attractions of our third and final day, completing the list of those in my opinion of greatest interest in the city, are the Casa de Pilatos, in Barrio san Bartolomé, and the Metropol Parasol, also known as Las Setas (the Mushrooms). I suggest limiting yourself to these two attractions if you are short on time, however, I will point out a number of things worth visiting by extending the route a bit. But let’s go in order.

We start with the Casa de Pilatos, a palace built at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries in the Italian Renaissance and Mudejar styles. Its name comes from a pilgrimage of the Marquis de Ribera (owner of the palace) to Jerusalem, during which he discovered (or so the story goes) that the distance between the palace and the church located outside the walls corresponded to that between the house of Pontius Pilate and Calvary. For this reason, too, some rooms are named after episodes from the Passion of Christ. The building is regarded as the prototype of the Andalusian palace and has been a National Monument since 1931. Internally, the palace is enchanting, prominent among them the beautiful azulejos that decorate the walls, considered the largest collection in existence. Entrance tickets can be purchased on the Casa de Pilatos website. The palace is accessible daily from 9 am to 6 pm.

Once the visit to Casa de Pilatos is over, following the U-shaped path shown on the map, you will encounter, in order:

1. Monument to Clara Campoamor, promoter of women’s suffrage in Spain.
2. Collegial Church of the Divine Savior, second largest church in the city after the Cathedral, in Baroque style.
3. Capilla de San Jose, a small 18th-century Baroque-style chapel.
4. Ayuntamiento (City Hall) of Seville.
5. Real Parroquia de Santa Maria Magdalena, an 18th-century Baroque Catholic parish church designed by Leonardo de Figueroa.
6. Museum of Fine Arts, the most important in Andalusia and second in all of Spain in terms of the number of works preserved.
7. Palace of the Countess of Lebrija, among the most beautiful palaces in Seville, with mosaic floors.
8. Palacio de las Dueñas, a noble house that was the residence of writer Antonio Machado.

We then come to the Metropol Parasol, known as Las Setas de la Encarnacion (Mushrooms of the Incarnation). This is the largest wooden structure in the world, built in 2011 by architect Jurgen Mayer. It is a construction composed of 6 large mushroom-shaped umbrellas, forming a structure from which one can appreciate beautiful panoramic views of the city.

If you still have time, you can continue from the Dueñas Palace in a northerly direction to the Barrio de la Macarena, a picturesque neighborhood quite off the tourist track and home to several churches, the most important of which is the Basilica dedicated to Our Lady of La Macarena. From the Basilica you can easily get to the Puente de la Barqueta, reminiscent from its shape of Bernatek’s bridge in Krakow, and the Puente del Alamillo, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava. Find a small travel map here.

Conclusions

Seville is among the cities I have enjoyed the most in all the trips I have taken (I absolutely include it in my top ten), undoubtedly the one I have enjoyed the most in Spain. Although it is not very big, it really offers a lot to see, plus it is quite inexpensive and, which is no small thing, you also eat on average very well. Having to rank the three attractions I enjoyed most, I would say:

1. Plaza de España, among the squares I liked best outside of Italy
2. Alcazar
3. Casa de Pilatos

If you have less than the 3 days assumed for the proposed itinerary, I suggest cutting back on the third day, but somehow incorporating into the other two the visit to the Casa de Pilatos and Las Setas, in my opinion among the must-see parts of the city. On the other hand, having an extra day, I definitely suggest a day visit to Cordova, a fairly small city that can be reached easily by train.