“Either I devour you, or the Red Flower will“.
The Jungle Book, R. Kipling
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Itinerary in pills (2 days)
- Skipped attractions
- Day 1: Myvatn region and Godafoss
- Day 2: Landmannalaugar
- Conclusions
Introduction
Memories from a lifetime ago take me back to when, as a Scout, I listened to my scout leaders tell stories from The Jungle Book, through which I imagined living in the wild and silent nature like the most famous of mancubs. In the words that Shere Khan addresses to Mowgli in one of the most exciting dialogues in Kipling’s masterpiece, the tiger shifts the focus to the Red Flower, metaphorically pointing to the destructive power of fire and the importance of learning to handle it wisely.
In addition to ‘Land of Ice’, a definition deriving from its etymology, Iceland is also called ‘Land of Fire’. This definition is linked to the constant volcanic activity underground and the various calderas scattered throughout Iceland. From countless craters to geothermal fields, passing through characteristic natural hot springs, the presence of volcanoes is one of the elements that gives Iceland a sometimes Martian charm.
Before leaving, the Land of Fire (a term that encompasses all the attractions related to Iceland’s volcanic phenomena) was the part of the trip that I considered most important. When you have finished reading this article, you will discover why, despite a few minor setbacks, I still consider it so even after returning home.
Itinerary in pills (2 days)
Due to a series of misadventures, our experience in Fire Land was limited to two intense, non-consecutive days. On the first day, we visited the Myvatn region, located in the northeast of the country, while on the second day we focused on Landmannalaugar, a place located in the south, between the Hekla volcano and the Vatnajokull glacier.
Below is a table listing the places we visited each day and the corresponding maps.
| Day | Attractions | Visited places | km/travel time | Night | Maps |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Myvatn region | Laugar, Akureyri, Hverir, Lago Myvatn, Hverfjall, Godafoss, Grjotagja, Bjarnarflag, Krafla (Viti crater and Leirhnjukur), Dimmuborgir lava fields | 165/2h40m | Akureyri (start from Laugar) | Laugar-Myvatn-Akureyri |
| 2 | Landmannalaugar | Brennisteinsalda trekking | 370/6h15m | Keflavik (start from Selfoss) | Selfoss-Landmannalaugar-Keflavik |
The table lists the places visited, but not all those that had been planned. As mentioned above, we had to skip several stops due to various unforeseen circumstances.
Skipped attractions
Askja
The main attractions of Askja are the Viti crater (not to be confused with its namesake in Krafla) and the caldera, which can be reached fairly easily from the Vikraborgir car park in about 40 minutes (just under an hour and a half there and back) via an easy trail. Inside the crater, there is also a small geothermal lake where you can swim. The view from the highest point of the caldera is said to be truly spectacular.
The main reason we decided not to visit the Askja volcano was essentially the bad weather. This is because, to get to Askja, you have to drive for about 6 hours there and back (3+3) on poor quality F-roads and, above all, you have to cross some rather challenging fords, regardless of which road you decide to take. There are essentially two possible combinations of roads:
- F88 + F910. To travel along the F88, you need a large jeep; a normal 4×4 such as a Dacia Duster is not sufficient, partly because one of the fords along the route is particularly deep.
- F905 + F910, the combination we would have chosen. There are two fords, the first of which is more challenging and is encountered after half an hour’s drive from Modrudalur. Many people manage to cross even this more challenging ford with a 4×4 like our Dacia Duster, which we had decided to venture out in if the weather was favorable.
I would like to remind you that you can check road conditions on this website. You can also ask for information directly from the Modrudalur rangers and/or the Dreki Hut managers, who can be contacted via Messenger.
It is also possible to reach Askja via an organized bus tour. In this case, however, the costs are quite high, as is often the case in Iceland. The only agency I found that is reliable is Myvatn Tours, for ISK 32,000 per person, equivalent to approximately €210.
Fagradalsfjall
Fagradalsfjall is a volcano that has recently begun to attract attention after lying dormant for almost 800 years. Its name derives from that of the mountain surrounding it and literally means “mountain of the beautiful valley.” One of the attractions of this site is the opportunity to view the volcano erupting safely from a close distance, provided that there are no particularly intense phenomena that are difficult to control. We were in the vicinity of Grindavik, the closest town to the volcano, the day after one of the most significant recent eruptions, which led the government to completely close the area to tourists. The most we could do was observe the eruption from the points where it was permitted to go, namely Asbru and Patterson airstrip, which are quite far from the volcano. What we could see, in fact, looked more like a big fire than an eruption.
If you are luckier than us, there are three trails you can take, imaginatively named A, B, and C. Trail A takes you a few meters from the volcano, which makes it very fascinating, but also more likely to be closed. Trail B is of medium difficulty and can be covered in about 4 hours round trip. Finally, trail C is the easiest and can be covered in about 2 hours round trip, but the volcano can be seen from a distance of just under 3 km.
To get to Fagradalsfjall, you don’t need to take F-roads, as the route is fairly straightforward. You can also reach the site by bus from Reykjavik.
Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon
Unfortunately, we also had to give up on the Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon, in the first case due to the closure of the road following the eruption in Grindavik (the Blue Lagoon is located a few kilometers from Fagradalsfjall), and in the second as an indirect consequence of a small problem with our car, which forced us to choose something to cancel from the itinerary. These two attractions were actually among the least interesting for us, as they are very touristy, although still very popular. The cost is slightly higher for the Sky Lagoon, starting at the equivalent of €98 per person, while prices for the Blue Lagoon start at €70.
Kerlingarfjoll (Hveradalir geothermal fields) and Seltun
Kerlingarfjoll is a mountain range that formed over 10,000 years ago following a volcanic eruption. It encompasses a complex of geothermal areas surrounded by spectacular glaciers. It is a fairly large area, offering a variety of activities. You can find descriptions of all the trails in Kerlingarfjoll here.
The most interesting part for us would have been the geothermal area of Hveradalir, which can be visited in a day and apparently offers incredible landscapes.
To reach this area, you need to take some of Iceland’s many rough roads, namely the F35 and F347, which are far from the Ring Road. There are no fords to cross along the way.
We gave up on visiting Hveradalir while planning our itinerary, as we had to return to Italy a day earlier than originally planned. Without going into too much detail, we found ourselves having to choose between Hveradalir and Landmannalaugar, ultimately opting for the latter, which, from what I had read, seemed to be a more picturesque destination.
Anyway, if we had visited Hveradalir, our idea would have been to walk at least two of the three trails available in the area. The trails that seemed most in line with our wish list were Hveradalahringur, a 3 km loop trail that can be covered in a couple of hours, and Hveradalaklif-Snorrahver, about half the length of the first and feasible in an hour.
The third trail is Efri Hveradalahringur, much longer than the other two (about 8 km), which leads to the highest part of the area, with breathtaking views. As an alternative to Hveradalir, we had thought of visiting the geothermal area of Seltun, located on the Reykjanes peninsula and therefore easily accessible from the Ring Road. However, although visiting this area is much less demanding (estimated time about an hour), we had to give it up, once again due to the closure of the road following the eruption in Grindavik.
Day 1: Myvatn region and Godafoss
Hverir e Bjarnaflag
Our day begins in Laugar, the town where we arrived after visiting the splendid Studlagil Canyon. Our first stop is Hverir, a volcanic expanse that gives off a strong smell of sulfur, where there are numerous fumaroles, immersed in a landscape of cosmic colors. It really feels like being on Mars (apart from the fact that I haven’t visited Mars… yet!). We allow ourselves a fairly long visit to the site, which is easily accessible from the car park (for a fee, the usual 1000 ISK) and visible from the Ring Road, walking around the area for a good hour.
We then proceed to the Bjarnaflag geothermal station, a few meters from Hverir. Here, you can already see a bright blue water basin from the road. The visit here is very brief, just enough time to park and take a few photos.
Krafla: Viti crater and Leirhnjukur sulphur springs
We then continue towards Krafla, where there are two main attractions: the Viti crater and the Leirhnjukur fumaroles. We start with the crater, which is easily reached from the parking lot. The visit consists of an incomplete tour of its ring, which would be quite simple if it weren’t for the rain and wind. Unfortunately, however, we are not so lucky, and my shoes soon become one with the mud, which rises in clumps as I walk. On the descent, it feels like being on a ski slope, with mud instead of snow. The view, however, is incredible. The lake formed in the crater is bright blue, and after walking a little, we catch a glimpse of a truly picturesque landscape.
After visiting the crater, which took us a good half hour, we arrived at the Leirhnjukur sulphur springs in just a few minutes. From the parking lot, we took a trail that branched off into three other trails, all of which were quite short. It took us an hour and a half in total to walk all of them. They are close together and well marked, offering different sights along the way. It is important not to step off the platforms at the beginning of the trail, as the heat of the ground could melt the soles of your shoes. The colors are truly beautiful.
Grjotagja and Dimmuborgir lava fields
After visiting the sulphur springs, we return to the car park, rather soaked due to the rain, but we are not deterred. We then continue towards Grjotagja, a small thermal cave. The cave is easy to reach once you have parked. You enter through a rather narrow crack, where you have to maneuver around a few other people, but it’s nothing dramatic. The visit really only takes a few seconds, partly because the only thing you can do is stand in the small space available near the entrance. Honestly, the cave didn’t leave much of an impression on me, but considering that it’s on the way, easy to access, doesn’t take much time, and is also free, it’s worth a quick visit.
From the cave, we head towards the Dimmuborgir lava field, where, among other things, we find a restroom. I mention this because we had a lot of trouble finding one in the whole area, so it might be useful to know. It is raining heavily and very windy, so we take a rather quick tour. However, we see a beautiful lava landscape. You can also take a photo from above from the terrace of the small shop next to the bathroom. In the background, you can also see the Hverfjall crater.
Hverfjall
Leaving the area, we head straight for Hverfjall, arriving in a few minutes after traveling a short stretch of rather rough road. There is a small parking lot, which costs, as usual, ISK 1,000, also including the Krafla area. The climb to the volcano is quite short, but the last stretch is also very tiring, especially in case of rain and wind. The crater is dry and very black in color. The view of the surroundings is, of course, truly spectacular. I try to walk around the crater, but the wind is so strong that it knocks me off balance several times despite my stoic resistance. In the end, it wins, so I have to give up and desist. In less unfavorable weather conditions, the complete tour takes about twenty minutes.
It should be noted that all these lunar wonders are set against the backdrop of the road, surrounded by extremely picturesque landscapes.
Godafoss
After this overview of volcanic landscapes, we resume our journey along the Ring Road towards Godafoss, the waterfall of the gods. In just a few kilometers, the scenery changes dramatically. We arrive at the waterfall in just under an hour and immediately set off on the short path that leads to the waterfall in about ten minutes. It is very cold and there is a fierce wind, so we only stop for a few minutes to admire this other wonder of nature.
Finally, we return to the Ring Road towards Akureyri, a small town that is actually the second largest in Iceland, where we spend the night. It is worth mentioning that, before arriving in Akureyri, you pass through the Vadlaheidi tunnel, Iceland’s only toll road. There are clear signs on the road indicating that this section is subject to a toll. However, there are no toll booths; the fee must be paid 24 hours before or after passing through the tunnel directly on this website.
Day 2: Landmannalaugar
Our tour of Landmannalaugar was rather troubled. Due to a problem with our car, we had to arrange to reach the site by bus, departing from Selfoss, where we had arrived from Borgarnes the previous day. Specifically, we used the buses of the Reykyavik Excursions company, departing from Hella, arriving from Selfoss by car (there would have been a stop in Selfoss as well, but the additional cost was disproportionate). The cost is about €65 per person each way. Among other companies, I would mention Trex, which has more trips during the day but costs more as it is also more popular.
If you want to get to Landmannalaugar by car, there are essentially two combinations of roads:
- F26+F208. This option involves a challenging dirt road, but has the advantage of not including any fords.
- F225+F208. In this case, the dirt road is slightly better, but you have to cross two fords, the first of which is of medium difficulty, while the second is more of a puddle. The route to follow for the fords is marked with flags, which you must stay close to during the crossing. The F225 is also much more scenic than the F26, which is why it is the road taken by buses.
During the bus ride, we observe the lunar landscape that surrounds us, catching a glimpse of the Hekla volcano in the distance.
We arrive at the Landmannalaugar campsite around 11 a.m., about half an hour ahead of schedule. The return trip is scheduled for 3:45 p.m., so we have about four and a half hours to explore as much as we can. There are several trails, from shorter ones that can be completed in a day to longer ones that take several days. Among the latter, the most famous is the Laugavegur, about 55 km long, known as one of the most scenic trails in the world. Among those that can be done in a day, in order of difficulty, are the Laugahraun Lava Field Loop (an easy loop trail, less than 2 hours long, almost entirely flat), the climb to the Brennisteinsalda volcano (medium difficulty, total time around 3 hours), and the climb to the Blahnúkúr volcano (high difficulty, total time over 3.5 hours without stops). The three trails can be combined in the Blahnúkúr–Brennisteinsalda Loop, which takes about 6 hours in total.
For reasons of time, and also a little bit of physical fitness, we opted for the climb to the Brennisteinsalda volcano, which also includes a large part (and the most beautiful part) of the Laugahraun Lava Field Loop, as it is an extension of it. The trails are well marked and there are sometimes small signs to help with orientation. The trail starts at the Grænagil canyon and continues through the Laugharaun lava field, both of which are part of the Laugahraun Lava Field Loop.
Once you have passed the fumarole zone, a rather steep climb begins, which corresponds to the fork for the ascent to the Brennisteinsalda volcano. As you get closer to the summit, the view becomes increasingly spectacular, thanks to the shades of color that make the landscape look, once again, like Mars.
Once at the top, the view is truly incredible, the kind that alone is worth the price of the entire trip. The weather conditions are also favorable, so we enjoy the view with due calm, even if the wind is blowing. The landscape looks like a painting.
After a suitable break, we return to the start of the trail. When we arrive near the bus parking lot, we still have an hour to spare before departure, which we decide to use for a relaxing bath in the hot springs located next to the campsite. The experience is brief but rejuvenating.
Finally, we return to Hella to pick up the car and head to the airport. Landmannalaugar was the last place we visited on our wonderful trip to Iceland.
Conclusions
The volcanic region of Myvatn and Landmannalaugar were my favorite stops on my trip to Iceland. So you can imagine how excited I was to visit those places, considering that their direct competitors are incredible attractions such as the Vatnajokull glacier and Jokulsarlon lagoon, Studlagil Canyon, and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
It was unfortunate to have to give up many of the stops we had planned, but safety always comes first. For example, I heard of people who got stuck in the rain while trying to cross the fords to reach Askja (I’ll let you imagine how much it cost them financially, considering that rental companies don’t normally cover damage to cars in such situations), and others who were rescued by helicopter while trying to walk the trails of Fagradalsfjall during an eruption, so that’s fine.
Despite the unexpected events, however, the competition between the best moments in the Fire Land is very close. With great difficulty, the stages I enjoyed the most are, in order:
- The climb up Brennisteinsalda and, in particular, the 360-degree view from the summit, truly an indescribable scene
- Hverir, an expanse of Martian colors
- The Krafla region, especially the Leirhnjukur solfataras
Among the tips I would give in terms of organization for this part of the trip, one is definitely to stay in accommodations that have a kitchen. Aside from the fact that it’s a good way to keep costs down, I got the impression that it was really difficult to find restaurants in the areas we visited during this part of the trip.
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