“I could cross liters and liters of coral
To reach a place called goodbye”
F. De Andrè, Amico Fragile
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- What to visit in Queensland
- Itinerary in pills
- Day 0: Arrival in Cairns
- Day 1: Boat trip to the outer reef
- Day 2: Daintree Forest and Cape Tribulation
- Day 3: Trasfer Cairns – Airlie beach
- Days 4 e 5: Trip to Whitehaven beach
- Day 6: Cape Hillsborough, scenic flight and transfer to Sydney
- Conclusions
Introduction
Although the verses by De Andrè with which I introduce the article you are reading actually refer to something else, I want to freely adapt them to a different meaning, namely the one I was thinking of while swimming among the corals of Michaelmas Cay and Hastings Reef: abandon me here.
The image of the Great Barrier Reef is one that probably everyone has in mind, even without necessarily having seen that paradise in person. It is a place where the difference between dream and reality becomes imperceptible, thanks to the incredible colors created by living, snow-white corals surrounded by turquoise waters.
I was lucky enough to see a fairly significant sample of the Great Barrier Reef in August 2023. Although August is not generally the best month to visit Australia, visibility of the Great Barrier Reef is at its best during this period. In addition, temperatures in Queensland, the region off the coast of which the reef is located, generally hover around 27-28 degrees during the day, with mostly sunny skies (which I can fortunately confirm). During our winter months, rainfall is more abundant, especially in the north. Another important advantage of the summer period is the absence of stinger jellyfish, which are highly dangerous (sometimes lethal) and migrate in search of warmer waters.
On the other hand, you may encounter some saltwater crocodiles, the most lethal biting animal on Earth (which, incidentally, has no qualms about attacking humans), but only if you go to certain places… as we did! I’ll tell you all about it later in the article.
What to visit in Queensland
The Great Barrier Reef stretches along the east coast of Australia for over 2,000 kilometers, covering a total area slightly larger than Italy, making it the largest coral reef in the world, even visible from space. If you do not own a yacht, like myself, the best way to visit the reef is to travel along the stretch of coastline where it is located, stopping at some particularly well-equipped locations, from which you can organize daily excursions to the outer reef. These locations can be grouped into three areas:
- Northern reef, particularly around Cairns and Port Douglas. This is one of the stretches of coastline closest to the outer reef, from which you can easily reach famous islands such as Michaelmas Cay, Upolu Cay, Green Island, and Fitzroy Island, as well as some particularly important reefs, such as Oyster Reef, Vlasoff Reef, and Hastings Reef.
- Whitsundays Coast, which includes Whitehaven Beach, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. The gateway to the Whitsundays is Airlie Beach. In addition to Whitehaven Beach, other noteworthy islands that can be easily visited from Airlie Beach are Daydream Island and Hamilton Island.
- The Capricorn Coast and the Southern Reef, the stretch crossed by the Tropic of Capricorn. The highlight of this stretch is undoubtedly Gladstone, from where you can reach Heron Island (one of the best diving sites in the world), Lady Musgrave, and Lady Elliot Island, among others.
In addition to visiting the outer reef of the Great Barrier Reef, the Queensland coast has much more to offer. Starting from the south, we must first mention Brisbane, the region’s most important city and capital. Of particular interest to tourists is the stretch of coastline around Brisbane, known as the Gold Coast, which is home to beaches suitable for surfers and several lively resorts, perfect for those who love nightlife. Continuing north, before reaching Gladstone, you will find the Sunshine Coast (100 km of golden sandy beaches) and, above all, Fraser Island, the largest sandy island in the world and the only place on the planet where rainforest grows on sand.
Another interesting stretch of coastline is the one that runs from Airlie Beach to north of Cairns. Starting from the south, we find, in order:
- Magnetic Island, an island with crystal clear waters, where it is easy to spot koalas. The island is easily reached by boat from Townsville.
- Mission Beach, a stretch of coastline where the rainforest meets the Coral Sea.
- Cape Tribulation and Daintree Forest, a stretch of rainforest overlooking the ocean, where you can spot saltwater crocodiles. The Daintree Forest is also home to Mossman Gorge, famous gorges where crystal clear waters flow over granite rocks.
Itinerary in pills
It would take many days to see all the attractions mentioned. Due to our limited time, we were only able to spend five days in Queensland. In particular, we focused on the coastline around Cairns and Airlie Beach.
We spent two full days in Cairns, using the first to take part in a boat trip to the outer reef and the second to visit Cape Tribulation and Daintree Forest, which we reached by rental car.
We then flew to Airlie Beach on a domestic flight. We had initially considered traveling by bus to stop at Mission Beach and Magnetic Island, but the connections did not allow us to do so without adding at least one extra day, so we ultimately decided to sacrifice these two destinations.
During the last two days, which I would describe as the best of the trip, we visited Whitehaven Beach, taking part in two different day trips, including a scenic flight over the outer reef. In our first draft itinerary, we had considered dedicating a day to Daydream Island and Hamilton Island, but after seeing the view of Hill Inlet on the first day, we decided to return on the second day to go to the beach (which was not accessible during the first excursion).
Before leaving Queensland, we finally included a stop at Cape Hillsborough, also reached by car, to try to see kangaroos on the beach.
Below is a recap of the itinerary.
| Day | Itinerary | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | Arrival in Cairns | Evening flight AYQ-CNS, connection in MEL. Night in Cairns |
| 1 | Cairns – cruise to Great Barrier Reef | Night in Cairns |
| 2 | Cape Tribulation | Night in Cairns |
| 3 | Airlie beach | Morning flight CNS-PPP. Night in Airlie beach |
| 4 | Whitehaven beach | Night in Airlie beach |
| 5 | Whitehaven beach | Night in Cape Hillsborough |
| 6 | Cape Hillsborough, scenic flight | Evening flight PPP-SYD |
Queensland was the third stop on our trip, after the Great Ocean Road and the Red Center.
Day 0: Arrival in Cairns
We arrive in Cairns from the Red Center by plane, with a stopover in Melbourne. The first flight departs with a significant delay, but we manage not to miss our connection thanks to the staff at Melbourne airport. We land in Cairns (CNS) late in the evening and reach our hostel by taxi, the only means of transport available to get to the town center, regardless of the time.
Day 1: Boat trip to the outer reef
The first day in Cairns is dedicated to a boat trip to the outer reef of the Great Barrier Reef. We rely on Seastar Cruise, whose itinerary includes two snorkeling/diving stops, the first at Michaelmas Cay and the second at Hastings Reef. The cost of the excursion is AUD 240 per person (approximately €150), and includes lunch and snorkeling equipment. Among the other agencies we consulted, I would mention Passion of Paradise.
During the trip to the snorkeling spots, we are given an introduction to the Great Barrier Reef, in particular the fauna and the various types of coral that can be found there.
The first stop is at Michaelmas Cay, a deserted islet in the middle of the Reef, famous among other things for being a resting place for birds (in fact, we see many of them), and one of the very few places where it is possible to go ashore if you wish.
The colors of the sea are remarkable, but the most beautiful part is definitely what you see in the water. Some people even see sharks, but we are not that lucky.
After the break, which will also include lunch, we head towards Hastings Reef. On the way, we spot whales in the distance. Here, the reef offers an even more beautiful spectacle than Michaelmas Cay.
After our second stop, we return to Cairns and take the opportunity to enjoy a relaxing stroll through the city center. The city is small but charming and very lively.
Day 2: Daintree Forest and Cape Tribulation
We use our second day to visit the Daintree Forest and Cape Tribulation, located about 150 km north of Cairns. The uniqueness of this area lies in the fact that it is a series of beaches in the middle of the rainforest. We arrive at Cape Tribulation by car, rented at a cost of AUD 150 (approximately €94) for the whole day, with full insurance. The road to get there is fairly simple and not very busy, but remember that they drive on the left. First, you pass through the Daintree rainforest, then cross a river on a small boat, which can be booked directly on site, and finally continue on to the beaches. Be aware of the boat schedules, which only operate from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. You can find all the relevant information here.
The beaches are not suitable for swimming due to the presence of saltwater crocodiles. However, there are some people who dive in at the shore, but we decide to avoid it. The beach is very large and the forest vegetation in the background is very dense. The colors of the sea are not picture-perfect, but the beach is an oasis of peace. We visit two beaches, Cape Trib and Cow Bay, both very charming and wild.
Once the visit is over, we return directly to Cairns, retracing the same route we took on the way there, and go back to rest after returning the car.
Day 3: Trasfer Cairns – Airlie beach
To get from Cairns to the Whitsundays (specifically to Airlie Beach, where we were staying), there are essentially two options. The first is a direct domestic flight to Proserpine (PPP), and the second is a bus (one or more), which takes a total of about 10 hours. As mentioned above, we had initially considered this second option, which we would have broken up into several stages to visit Mission Beach and/or Magnetic Island, but the connections did not allow us to do so without losing more than a day, so we opted for the domestic flight.
We therefore headed to the airport, sharing our taxi with a guest of our hostel. We took off a couple of hours late on a 15-seater Skytrans plane, the only airline at the time offering direct flights on that route. One of the advantages of choosing to fly was that we flew over the Barrier Reef during the journey, and the view from above was naturally breathtaking.
We land in Proserpine in the afternoon and reach Airlie Beach by taxi, shared with other people who had flown with us. On the way, we also see our first kangaroos. In the evening, we take a walk along the only two streets in Airlie Beach, which we find neither particularly good nor bad.
Days 4 e 5: Trip to Whitehaven beach
The next two days are dedicated to Whitehaven Beach, which we visit twice in one day with two different agencies. On the first day, we rely on Sealink, which organizes the boat trip and is one of the agencies that guarantees the longest stay on the beach, which is still limited. Before arriving at Whitehaven Beach, there is a stop at the Hill Inlet viewpoint, one of the top three most photographed attractions in Australia (with good reason!). On the second day, we rely on Ocean Rafting, with whom we book a package that also includes a scenic flight over the Barrier Reef. One of the advantages of the Ocean Rafting excursion is the possibility of making a short stop at Hill Inlet beach, which is not allowed with other agencies. The costs of all excursions in this area are high, and you can compare and book them on the Sailing Whitsundays website.
Apart from the above, the two excursions are very similar, except for the quality of the lunch, which is quite good at Sealink, but absolutely bad at Ocean Rafting (which, incidentally, is paid for separately, but is optional). During the boat trip, we see whales again, this time very close up, while during snorkeling (which in general is nothing special compared to what we saw on the excursion in Cairns), we hear their echoes in the water, a truly unique experience.
The stop at the Hill Inlet viewpoint is truly surreal. To get there, you have to climb a short staircase. The view is one of the most beautiful that the Almighty has ever created. The reason for this statement can be seen in the photos, which speak for themselves. Fortunately, it is also a beautiful day, allowing us to see the colors clearly.
A detour from the same staircase that leads to the viewpoint also provides access to the beach, but it is not possible to stay there for long. Aware of this, during the second excursion we decide to skip the stop at the viewpoint to enjoy a few more minutes on the beach, ahead of the rest of the group. The beach is truly wonderful, and already at the shore you can see lots of stingrays lying in wait.
The last stop on the excursions is Whitehaven Beach (not to be confused with Hill Inlet Beach, which is located opposite), considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. The colors of the sea are absolutely remarkable, but honestly less exciting than other places we have seen around the world. What makes this beach truly special are the 7 kilometers of white sand, composed of 99% silicon so pure that it was used in the past to build telescopes, and which emits a truly unique sound when stepped on.
Note: As mentioned above, we initially considered visiting Daydream Island and Hamilton Island instead of participating in the second excursion to Whitehaven Beach. If you are interested in visiting these two islands, you can take a ferry from Airlie Beach. All the information can be found on the Cruise Whitsundays website.
Upon returning from the second day’s excursion, we picked up our rental car to drive to Cape Hillsborough, located just over an hour’s drive south of Airlie Beach, where you can see kangaroos on the beach in the national park. We see kangaroos already outside our accommodation, a small house in the middle of nowhere, where there are no restaurants, markets, or other forms of life.
Day 6: Cape Hillsborough, scenic flight and transfer to Sydney
To see the kangaroos on the beach, you have to arrive at dawn, which we don’t mind at all, especially because the view of the first light of day from that beach is truly spectacular. When we arrive, we are the only ones there, but people start arriving shortly after, as do the kangaroos.
The kangaroos stay on the beach for about an hour, so we leave with them. We then return directly to Airlie Beach, and after returning the car, we head to its tiny airport (pick-up managed by Ocean Rafting) for a scenic flight over the Barrier Reef, lasting about an hour.
Note: when booking, pay attention to the duration of the flight, because in some cases it is only 20 minutes. When it is so short (and naturally cheaper), it is because the plane does not go as far as the reef surrounding Heart Reef, but only flies over the Hill Inlet area, meaning you miss the most beautiful part.
The flight is challenging even for the most seasoned stomachs, but the gastrointestinal turmoil you feel at the end of the flight is definitely worth the experience. To this day, it remains one of the most incredible sights I have ever witnessed. Again, the photos speak for themselves.
After the scenic flight, we head to Proserpine Airport for our domestic flight to Sydney, where we land in the afternoon. But that’s another story.
Conclusions
Without beating around the bush, seeing the Barrier Reef was a dream come true, one from which I never wanted to wake up. The panoramic view of Hill Inlet and the reef are undoubtedly among the top five most breathtaking sights I have ever seen in my life.
The five days in Queensland were the best part of my trip to Australia, and considering that the other stops were at the Red Center, on the Great Ocean Road, and in Sydney, you can understand that this is something I consider truly unique.
If I had to choose the best moments of this part of the trip, I have little doubt:
- The panoramic flight over the outer reef of the Great Barrier Reef. I have flown over several reefs around the world, from the Maldives to the Philippines, from the Caribbean to the Cook Islands, but the spectacle I witnessed flying over the Great Barrier Reef is unparalleled.
- The view of Hill Inlet was truly breathtaking, to say the least.
- Snorkeling at Hastings Reef was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had.
Cost note: contrary to what you might think, staying in Cairns and Airlie Beach is very cheap. The biggest impact on your budget will be excursions, which are really expensive. The cost of food, on the other hand, is absolutely average.
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